High Flying back to the Shtetl

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Somewhere over the Indian Ocean on my 6th visit to the shtetls of Europe.

This is my first live post from an aircraft at 12000 metres, thanks to the $1 wifi service Emirates offers on their A380 Airbus .

Posting from my iPhone 6+

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Lots of entertainment on the 11 hour flight to Dubai, connecting with an 8 hour Qantas flight  to London.

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On Monday, I start my nine day drive around Lithuania. Lots of towns and shtetls to visit!  I will be using Airbnb for the first time.

The following week I am in Kiev and Lviv, my first visit to the Ukraine.

On the final leg, I will be visiting Lublin and Warsaw in Poland before returning to Perth on 18 June.

I look forward to your company and feel free to comment. Let me know if am anywhere near your shtetl.

The Boerejode of the Boland

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A visit to Cape Town is not complete without a drive to one of the towns in the Boland.

From Wikipedia:

Boland, Western Cape

The Boland (Afrikaans for “top country” or “land above”[1]) is a region of the Western Cape province of South Africa, situated to the northeast of Cape Town in the middle and upper courses of the Berg and Breede Rivers, around the mountains of the central Cape Fold Belt. It is sometimes also referred to as the Cape Winelands because it is the primary region for the making of Western Cape wine.

Although the Boland does not have defined boundaries, its core lies around the towns of StellenboschPaarl and Worcester. It may be understood to extend as far as MalmesburyTulbaghSwellendam and Somerset West. This is approximately the area included in the Cape Winelands District Municipality, which was formerly called the Boland District Municipality. To the southwest lies the Cape Town metropolitan area, to the northwest the Swartland and West Coast, to the northeast the Great Karoo, to the east the Little Karoo, and to the south the Overberg.

The “Boland” name is given to a number of sports teams from the region, including the Boland cricket team and the Boland Cavaliersrugby union team.

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Many of the Jews who came to Africa from Europe settled in rural areas and small dorps. They formed a subculture within the Afrikaner environment of these towns and many were known as Boerejode, Afrikaner Jews or more literally “farmer Jews”.

These towns could be regarded as Africa’s version of the shtetl back in Eastern Europe.

In the earlier years of settlement,  there was the Jewish pedlar or smous, who travelled from town to town, farm to farm, selling his wares. Here is a memorial to the smous or pedlar on my new Graaff Reinet KehilaLink:

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http://kehilalinks.jewishgen.org/graaff_reinet/Smouse.html

Below you will find a selection of my images of Stellenbosch, one of the main towns of the Boland with its striking mountains, rich winelands and outstanding Cape Dutch architecture.

I have also included some interesting articles which I found at the Kaplan Centre archives at UCT, the Univeristy of Cape Town, my alma mater!

A big thank you to Juan-Paul Burke, the librarian at the Kaplan Centre, always so obliging and helpful, for allowing me to use them.

And on a tangent – on campus there was no sign of Cecil John Rhodes, except for the old signs!

Boerejood

in Wikipedia, die vrye ensiklopedie

 

Afrikaner-Jews

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

According to the South African Jewish Museum, “Many of the later immigrants arrived with no resources other than their wits and experience. Most could not speak English when they arrived. Often they would learn Afrikaans before English. Their households were often multi-lingual, with parents speaking Yiddish and Afrikaans, and the children learning English at school.”[citation needed]

The University of Cape Town Jewish Studies library has a comprehensive collection of South African Yiddish books. Its collection of Yiddish periodicals is, however, not as comprehensive.

Famous Afrikaner-Jews

Stellenbosch – at and near the Lanzerac Hotel – still so beautiful!

In and around Stellenbosch

 

From the archives at the Kaplan Centre, UCT:

Stellenbosch

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Paarl

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Malmesbury

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UCT, Cape Town

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Our previous visit to Stellenbosch

http://elirab.me/stellenbosch/

If you are looking for a great tour of Cape Town and / or the Boland, Gerald Potash’s “The Famous Tour” is a must!

Gerald also writes an excellent but sobering weekly blog. Contact Gerald here.

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With Gerald at the Waterfront.

 

 

New Jewish Websites & Shemot

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In honour of the Jewish Pedlar or Smous – see Graaf Reinet KehilaLink

 

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My article about the Shanghai KehilaLink has been published in the April 2016 edition of Shemot, the publication of the JGS of Great Britain.

http://www.jgsgb.org.uk/shemot

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My interest in family history started in 1992, after my cousin wrote seven ancestors’ names down on a scrap piece of paper.

I have had many genealogical success stories since then. This is due to my often unorthodox, multi focused approach, described by my daughter in law as “tangential”!

In 2011 I visited Eastern Europe for the first time. My heritage travels have taken me back four additional times. I have visited Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Belarus, Poland, Hungary, Germany, the Czech Republic and Turkey.

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I started writing KehilaLinks in 2011, the first being for Orla, near Bialystok in Poland in 2011.

http://kehilalinks.jewishgen.org/orla

What is a KehilaLink:

JewishGen KehilaLinks (formerly “ShtetLinks”) is a project facilitating web pages commemorating the places where Jews have lived.  KehilaLinks provides the opportunity for anyone with an interest in a place to create web pages about that community.  These web pages may contain information, pictures, databases, and links to other sources providing data about that place.

Kehila קהילה [Hebrew] n. (pl. kehilot קהילות): Jewish Community.  It is used to refer to a Jewish community, anywhere in the world.

Sites are hosted by JewishGen, the world’s largest Jewish genealogical organisation, an affiliate of the Jewish Heritage Museum in New York City. JewishGen provides amateur and professional genealogists with the tools to research their Jewish family history and heritage.

People are invited to send in their own stories, photos and memoirs. There is no cost in participating in a KehilaLink and it is a great way to share one’s family history

 

My list has grown to 63 websites with 3 more in the pipeline.

The full list and links are available at

http://elirab.me/litvak-portal/kehilalinks/

The Shanghai KehilaLink

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http://kehilalinks.jewishgen.org/shanghai/Home.html

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Ironically, the one place I have not been to is Shanghai! Yet, I have been drawn to it by its connection to the Jewish people and especially because of the story of Chiune Sugihara, the Japanese consul in Kovno, the capital of Lithuania during WWII. Against his government’s wishes, Sugihara issued transit visas to Jews, enabling them to get to Shanghai, and therefore saved many lives. The story only surfaced in the 1970s. See  Rabbi Levi Wolff of Sydney Central Synagogue:

http://kehilalinks.jewishgen.org/shanghai/Australia.html

The video:

Sugihara also appears on several of  my other KehilaLinks: Mir in Belarus, Kedainiai in Lithuania, and Sydney and Melbourne in Australia.

See also:

http://elirab.me/australia/sugihara-house-museum/

Four New South African KehilaLinks

This week we went live with:

Grahamstown

Graaff Reinet

Springs

Benoni

Please visit the sites. If you have connections to these towns or cities, please contact me.

There are already some interesting contributions:

Read about the tribute to the Jewish pedlar (smous) from Rabbi Moshe Silberhaft

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Photos of the Wertheim family from Amanda Katz Jermyn: Read Amanda’s story:

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Amanda’s grandfather’s uncle, Hermann Wertheim, his wife Mathilde, and children Julius, Max, Fanny and Fritz who lived in Graaff-Reinett. It was taken in about 1892

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The general store, Wille & Wertheim, formerly Baumann Bros., where Amanda’s grandfather, August Katz came to work for his uncle Hermann Wertheim.

August Katz, Boer War

August Katz, Amanda’s grandfather, in his British Boer War uniform

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Grave of Fritz Wertheim, son of Mathilde and Hermann Wertheim. Hermann was a brother of Amanda’s great-grandmother, Mathilde Wertheim.

Kol Tuv

 

 

Muizenberg – A Surfers Paradise

Here are a few of the photos I took at Muizenberg last week.

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The people and cultures on this popular South African beach present quite a contrast to the heydays of the Litvaks, who were here in the 40s, 50s and 60s and then left!

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Here is a short video clip:

 

On my last day in Cape Town, I arrived in time to see the sunrise. I enjoyed the walk to St James and back. These photos will appear in a later post.

Jeppestown Walking Tour

Ishvara Dhyan’s walking tour of Doornfontein two weeks ago was fabulous – a highlight of my visit to South Africa.

I will be posting my photographic memories of it shortly

Ish is leading another tour this weekend. I am not sure if there are places available, but email him at:

ancientsecrets@absamail.co.za

This is what he says:

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    The Jeppestown Walk  ~ on Saturday 27th Feb 2016

     ..will begin at 10 am  

     we are meeting at the HOUSE of BAOBAB No 20 Kruger St 

      at the Maboneng Precinct near Arts on Main – 

       there is secure parking in the surrounding streets.. the walk ends at the same place at approx 13h30 

 

   Jeppestown is Johannesburgs oldest residential suburb. (1889)

  We will visit many places of historical & cultural interest on the walk, including :

* the mosaics at Maboneng Precinct by artist Hannelie Coetzee
* the Jooste & Bryants Building ( Victorian Beauty)

* the Mentis Building ( Art Nouveau ) 
* the Jozi Mall ( Somali shops – designed as a result of xenophobia )
* old Jewish shops & homes of Jeppestown
* the scenes of the 2008 xenophobic attacks
* the Anglican Church – Joburgs oldest (still functioning) church
* the restaurant used in the movie “ Long Walk to Freedom “  
* traditional herbalist shops of Zulu Inyangas 
* scene of the Jeppestown massacre 2006

* the first Lithuanian Shul 1903 – 1926
* the Main Jeppestown Synagogue 1926 -2002
* Salisbury House – Philosophy school 1903
* St James Preparatory School 1905 

We return to the Maboneng Precinct for an optional lunch  at your own expense

( Senegalese buffet ) at ” The House of Boabab ”  restaurant.
 
Cost : R150-00 per person

My bond with Atzalyno Gimnazija, a school in Kedainiai

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The students take me on a multicultural tour of Kedainai, the last stop being the two former synagogue complex, one of only a handful in Lithuania. The centre is run by Rimantas Zirgulis, director of the Museum and includes a permanent Jewish display, one of the first towns in Lithuania to do so.

The video report on a Lithuanian TV channel with a synopsis in English by two of the students: Juste & Julija

Kedainiu Zinios 7:21 – 9:55 – meeting at our school
The English teacher Laima Ardavičienė surprises her students every single lesson. She is diversifying her lessons with various tasks and even guests.
Laima says, „ Last year I was working on a project and the main idea was to introduce different cultures to students. I found a video of Jewish weddings which reflected Jewish traditions. After watching this video, I asked the author if I was able to use it and I got shocked when he replied „ Laima, you can use it. By the way, you can be really surprised, but I‘m rooted in Kėdainiai“. The author of the video was our guest Eli Rabinowitz. It‘s the second time Eli Rabinowitz is visiting our school. Last year he was a participant in our project too, while students were learning about different communities in Kėdainiai. Meetings like this never end. We keep in touch via skype and have skype meetings with students.

An article in the Lithuanian press:

Anglų kalbos pamokos kitaip
Iš arčiau 2015/05/29 by Vilija Mockuvienė
Vieni „Atžalyno“ gimnazijos mokiniai mokytojos Laimos Ardavičienės anglų kalbos pamokų laukia su baime, kiti – su džiaugsmu. Gimnazistai žino, kad šios patyrusios pedagogės pamokose nebus nei nuobodulio, nei tuščio laiko leidimo.
Paįvairindama pamokas „Atžalyno“ gimnazijos mokytoja Laima Ardavičienė į Kėdainius pakvietė Australijoje gyvenantį žydą E. Rabinovičių, kuris turi sąsajų su šiuo miestu ir mielai bendrauja su jaunimu.

For further see:
http://muge.eu/anglu-kalbos-pamokos-kitaip/

My images are supplemented with some provided by Vilius, a delightfully engaging student, who would like one day, to have sports photography business, possibly in South Africa!

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A Journey Through The Jewish Shtetl Of Doornfontein

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On Sunday the 7th February 2016 at 10 am

… we will walk through the old Jewish neighbourhood of Doornfontein Johannesburg.

Some of the highlights include :
* the Lion Shul : 1906
* Yiddishe Arbeiter Klub : the Jewish Workers Club : 1928
* the Alhambra Theatre
* the Yiddishe Altesheim : Jewish Old Age Home
* Beit Hamedrash Hagodel : the Sherwell St Shul
* the first Greek Orthodox Church in Joburg : 1913
* the Beit St shops – Wachenheimers , Nussbaums etc
* the Ottoman Embassy : home of Henri Bettelheim
* the University of Johannesburg Campus
* the Jewish Govt School : IH Harris Primary
* the Hebrew High School : Talmud Torah
* the old Victorian homes on Sivewright St
* the Great Synagogue on Wolmarans St : 1914

Times : 10h00 till 14h00

R150-00

If you wish to attend, please confirm that there is available space by sending an email to :

ancientsecrets@absamail.co.za for banking details and further instructions

Space is limited – so confirmation is essential

Please note : men please bring a yarmulke for entering the synagogues and women please dress modestly.

Visit the Lion’s Shul on the Johannesburg KehilaLink

Now Is The Time To Visit Jewish Lithuania

Just launched:

The essential 36 page guide to visiting Jewish Lithuania and its ten key sites which highlight Jewish history and cultural heritage. This is the project of AEPJ European Routes of Jewish Heritage, published by the private Institute for Tourism Development and financed by the Lithuanian Jewish Commuity’s Good Will  Foundation.

One of the sites featured is Kedainiai, previously known as Keidan, a town of great Jewish importance. Keidan just also happens to be my Litvak shtetl!

All you need to build the perfect tour is more information on your own shtetl, and someone familiar with the territory to help you with your shtetl research, itinerary and bookings!

For all this and more, please contact me at eli@elirab.com

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[iframe src=”http://www.kehilalinks.jewishgen.org/kedainiai/European_Routes.html” width=”100%” height=”420″]

For more details on the guide, click Kedainiai Kehilalink.

[fb_pe url="https://www.facebook.com/eli.rabinowitz.3/posts/10153754480551070" bottom="30"]

http://elirab.me/australia/my-bond-with-atzalyno-gimnazija-a-school-in-kedainiai/

lithuania
Regards

Eli
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